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When to buy
Remember that the registration plate changes twice a year in March and September. These are very busy months for the motor trade and the high consumer demand makes discounts less likely - with one exception, which we'll get to in a moment.
February and August are slack months and you'll find dealers are more willing to talk discounts, for two reasons. First, they will be keen to have a flow of cash coming in, even if that means settling for less profit than normal. And second, they will want to reduce stock levels in readiness for the impending, manic plate-change month.
However, you must also bear in mind that the age-identifying letter or number on the registration plate influences your new car's future value. So, buying a car in, say, February rather than March, you can expect it to be worth typically £250-£750 less.
Buying in the traditionally quiet month of December can bring savings for the same reasons. And, as with the plate change, a car registered in, say, 2001 will be worth typically £250-£500 less than an identical car registered in 2002 - despite their registration dates being separated by only a few days. Make sure the extra discount covers this discrepancy.
You can also strike it lucky by shopping at the end of the month - even in March and September. This is because manufacturers set sales targets for dealers. Reaching these targets brings dealers lucrative bonuses and if a dealer is one or two cars short of target at the end of the month, it makes financial sense to sell them for little or no profit just to earn the bonus
Checklist
Make sure you get all the relevant documentation and have completed the following 12-point checklist when you buy a new car. These could be important considerations in any subsequent legal dispute.
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Copy of dealer's pre-delivery inspection form |
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Car manual, service book and road tax disc |
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Completed invoice |
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Spare wheel and tools |
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All lights, including interior lights and indicators, work |
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All electric windows work |
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All door locks and alarms work |
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Audio system works |
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Bodywork is free of dents and scratches |
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Wheels/wheel trims are undamaged |
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Interior trim, including seats, are undamaged |
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Windows and windscreen are undamaged; windscreen wipers work |
Where to buy?
You have three choices - franchised dealer, broker or a personal import from mainland Europe. Which is best depends on your individual priorities, but here are some guidelines to help you decide.
FRANCHISED DEALERS
For: More personal, ability to trade in your existing car, chance of low-rate finance schemes, availability of test drives
Against: Usually dearer, involves face-to-face negotiation
BROKERS
For: Usually cheaper, easy to arrange, no face-to-face pressure
Against: Unlikely to take your car as a trade-in or offer low-rate finance, a handful of disreputable brokers
EUROPEAN PERSONAL IMPORTS
For: Often cheaper, easier than you might think
Against: Longer waiting times, more work on your part, unlikely to handle trade-ins, warranties tend to be shorter
Before you buy
There are many scams and pitfalls associated with the second-hand car market which you should be aware of:
A 'ringer' is a stolen car given a new identity. If you happen to buy one, you could lose the car and never get your cash back. Counterfeit car parts are not only illegal, but can present a serious safety risk.
Wiping thousands of miles off a car's odometer - known as 'clocking' - can make vehicles appear much more valuable than they actually are.
A 'cut and shut' is one vehicle made out of two 'good' halves of crashed cars.
If you suspect the vehicle been stolen, scrapped or written-off, or you need to know the VIN confirmation, number of previous owners or number plate and colour changes, then visit Carwatchuk
The AA & RAC also offer services for people buying used cars:
http://www.rac.co.uk
http://www.theaa.com
Visit UKOrbit's Consumer & Advice Centre for further help and information.
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